Shampooing
The first synthetic shampoos were introduced in the 1930's and by '70s and '80s, daily shampooing became norm in the US. So shampooing in the modern sense (water to produce a soapy lather) is only about 100 years old.
Our modern shampoos are a combination of surfactants (such as SLS) which dissolve natural oils (sebum) and remove dirt particles. As result, it reduces the natural oils in your hair and scalp making it drier than usual, causing the scalp to produce more oil to compensate.
According to some dermatologists, a gradual reduction in shampoo causes sebaceous glands to produce sebum at a slower rate resulting in less oil on the scalp and in the hair2009.
Michelle Hanjani, a dermatologist at Columbia University explains:
If you wash your hair every day, you're removing the sebum, then the oil glands compensate by producing more oil"
She recommends that patients wash their hair no more than two or three times a week.
In the 2010 book Packing for Mars, Soviet research said2010:
the skin halts its production of sebum—after five to seven days of not bathing
However this could vary greatly from person to person, as some people could respond better to some products with different concentrations of surfactants.
For example if you have "oily hair" you need a higher concentration of SLS to help dissolve the oils, when you have "dry and frizzy hair", it would exacerbate the problem.
In 2007 radio audition, Australian Richard Glover decided to challenge his audience to go without shampoo for six weeks. 86 percent of those who 500 people who participated reported that "their hair was either better or the same"wiki.
Studies
A study from 1997 showed a link between excessive oil production and anti-dandruff shampoos containing selenium sulfide.
Study was conducted in 120 men in order to quantify the effect of eight proprietary antidandruff shampoos on sebum flow dynamic.
Two shampoos exhibited a significant effect upon the sebum follicular reservoir, steadily increasing the sebum excretion rate in time. One other product induced a significant decrease in sebum output.
Only a few topical products are known to decrease the sebum output at the skin surface:
Among them, the effect of progesterone, astringents, erythromycin-zinc complex, corticosteroids, and elubiol have been documented.
For older studies, see: 1968, 1983
In 2013, the FDA announced that triclosan was found to affect hormone levels in animalsFDA.
Animal studies have shown that triclosan alters hormone regulation. However, data showing effects in animals don’t always predict effects in humans.
A recent study from 2014 showed that shampooing impact on cortisol levels in human hair:
Chemical processing and frequent shampooing affect cortisol levels measured in hair. Chemically processed or excessively shampooed hair should be avoided when recruiting subjects for hair cortisol studies.
Based on above it seems that chemical properties in modern shampoos can affect our hormones, however more studies needs to be conducted to see how exactly it affects our natural oil production (sebum).
Read more:
- Ditching shampoo a dirty little beauty secret at NBC
- When It Comes To Shampoo, Less Is More at NPR
- Of Course I Washed My Hair Last Year
- Curly Girl by Michele Bender (2002)
- No poo (no shampoo) at Wikipedia